Review: Mario's Like Dining in Little Italy

For locals, Mario's in East Setauket is a longtime landmark, a staple in the community for 48 years. The Branchinelli family had to overcome nearly 18 months of obstacles – including a fire – to get the restaurant running, but the family's hard work has paid off.

Its extensive menu is comprised of traditional Italian favorites, as well as many of its own specialties. While perusing the menu, toasted bread and olive oil for dipping were a welcome treat. After a promising recommendation from our server Dana, we started with the buffalo calamari. It came out what seemed like mere seconds after ordering it, piping hot and large enough to feed at least four people. The calamari was lightly floured, fried, and tossed in a perfectly spicy buffalo sauce served with a side of chunky blue cheese dressing.

The spiciness of the calamari was complimented by martinis we chose to sample as well. The watermelon martini was fresh and summery, while the raspberry peach martini had a wonderful balance of sweetness and tartness and contained actual bits of fresh raspberries. Both martinis were made with real fruit and were among many signature drinks Mario's offers.

The meals came out shortly after we had our appetizer wrapped to go. The shrimp oreganato was served on a piping hot skillet with over a dozen shrimp encircling a mound of rice pilaf. The shrimp were perfectly cooked, piled with breadcrumb topping, and were absolutely delicious. The veal bruschetta alone was enough to feed two, possibly even three people. Massive cutlets, sliced paper thin, breaded, and fried, covered the entire dish and were topped with a tantalizing, fresh tomato bruschetta. An added bonus for anyone dining at Mario's, the portions were so large that there was enough food leftover to repeat the entire meal again the next day.

When visiting Mario's, as difficult a task as it may be, make sure to save room for dessert. The tiramisu was among the best I have ever tasted. The cream was rich and dense, and the cake was saturated with a bold espresso. The nuttiness of the espresso perfectly offset the sweetness of the cream. The dessert was served with a cup of espresso which was deliciously robust in flavor.

With the high level of service and taste at Mario's, the restaurant is sure to continue its success. Also check out the Branchinelli family's other restaurants Colosseo Pizza in Port Jefferson Station and Branchinelli's Pizza in Hauppauge.

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